Sharkey's RTW Travels: The second Glimpse of Bhutan

Tuesday 4th March
Another side effect of my AMS, caused me to have a very restless night and I started listening to my body! I was having some palpitations and so decided it would be best to consult a doctor! Easier said than done. I called reception about 4:00 am and asked to see a doctor, they asked me to hang on, i.e. Wait a while. About 15 minutes later the phone rang as I was put through to Yangki (they'd called her as they didn't know what to do, in hind sight that was definitely the best option!) Yangki tried to contact a doctor, her niece is one, but no one was picking up! About 4:45 am Yangki knocked on my door and said we were going to the hospital, so I dressed and off we went. Yangki's husband drove and we arrived within 15 mins.

This was now a Real Bhutanese experience, the hospital was very very basic and is the main hospital of Bhutan, where everyone who needs to, gets referred there. However, at this time of the morning, it was so quiet that the nurse was playing chess on the computer and the sister was taking a nap on the desk. So they check my blood pressure 176/121 it was on the high side, I knew that! So they wire me up take some ECG's and put me on a bed and monitor me. The doctor comes and I explain my history, etc. she consults the main doctor who will be in around 8:00 am and I have a couple of aspirins and something to help lower my blood pressure. Then a chest X-ray and another ECG before the doctor(s), her understudy and another a cousin of Yangki's. Basically, I had a little fluid on the lung and that's another symptom of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness). They wanted to keep me monitored until my BP stabilised. Once this was OK, they put the palpitations down to AMS but also it looks like I may have developed HyperTension, i.e. High Blood Pressure - not uncommon in men of my age (Old) and certainly not helped with all the beer drinking in Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia!

I was eventually discharged with some medication for lowering my BP and advised not to do any trekking at altitude, at this time as such. So I have seen another side of Bhutan!! That said, while I was in the emergency room a young girl was brought in who had stopped breathing and the Dr's and nurses tried everything for over two hours but to no avail. When her relatives came, her mother first, she grieved as they do and it was the same when her father came. As Yangki was taking me back, the family were collecting her body, on the back of a truck! This was real life in Bhutan... but I didn't take any photos :-(

Dinner tonight was again at Yangki's but we were asked to get there at 7:00pm. There was a blazing fire going in the BBQ but this was to keep us warm as we were being entertained by the same dance troop that welcomed us to Bhutan at the Janka resort. This was a real cultural event and we have been so privileged to observe a typical Bhutanese song and dance spectacular. Our organiser Yangki really pulls all the strings out to ensure we have an experience of a lifetime. Dinner was yet again a feast, so we ate and drunk, although I was on my best behaviour. At the end of dinner we were treated to some traditional folk music performed by Jigme Trygve Drukpa on a Bhutanese Lute that was at least 100 years old.

And so to bed as we were off to Punakha tomorrow via the Dochu La Pass at 3100m the highest point that my body will physically experience on this part of my Journey.

Wednesday 5th March
This morning it was Snowing!!

Breakfast and then to the hospital for a quick check on my BP! There was a massive queue but Yangki used her knowledge and we went to the front desk where they checked my BP and it was 150/97 still high but a lot better than it had been! Off to a Puja ceremony at a local monastery to have a blessing, they served us tea and fruit shortcake biscuits! It was a very interesting experience and one felt quite humble during the ceremony.

A Young Monk

Tea and Biscuits...

Back to the Kwang residency as we had to load up the bus and drive via the Dochu La pass to Punakha and there were some planned road closures because of the current road works - they are improving their roads, interestingly it's being done by an Indian company with Indian labour and that's male and female!

There are NO traffic lights in Bhutan but there is traffic management! But only the one in Thimphu...

Stopped at the Dochu La pass to take in the views, sometimes the Himalayas can be seen in the distance but not today. Also to see the 108 Chortens (AKA Stupa's) built by their Queen Mother to honour soldiers killed in 2003 fighting the Indian rebels!

The 108 Chortens...

The view of the lower Himalayas?

Close up of the Chortens

Arrived Punakha, there was a mix up with my room because of my hospital visit and so for the first night I was in the servants/drivers/guides quarters, see the pics. Dinner and then an early night.

A very basic room...

Not the best of views!

Thursday 6th March
Breakfast. Today we were going to the Chime Lhakhang temple whichever is considered a sacred fertility temple. The Bhutanese consider the male organ to be a sign of fertility and you see many picture of this painted on the walls of their houses! I have included a few and hope no one takes offence, they also sell phallic looking art!

Handicraft Shop!!

An invitation to ...

A serious local...

More Prayer Flags

Prayer Flags...

A young monk in colourful surroundings.

Melina

Richard

Lesley

Whose throw is it?

There were some monks here playing darts (Bhutanese type) and lots of colourful surroundings, etc.

Mud bricks laid out to dry...

We had a traditional Bhutanese buffet lunch, with the red rice, on the way back and also a chance to visit some shops!

A smiling local woman.

Gimble plays a game with a local boy, as our group look on.

Then to the town of Punakha for some interesting snaps before heading back to the hotel where I was re-located to a normal guest room, and yes I took the normal pics.

Bamboo Scaffolding

Carrots, peas, chilis, etc...

School's Out...

Their smiley faces!

Much more space... and comfier too.

Wow - what an amazing view, worth the wait!

Dinner, tonight may have been served rather than buffet, I just can't remember :-(

Friday 7th March
Breakfast and then today we were going to see the Punakha Dzong, their Dzongs are basically fortresses and monasteries combined. It's full name is Druk Pungthang Dechen Phodrang meaning "the Palace of Great Happiness". This is also the place where we will come tomorrow to see the Punakha Dromche, which they were rehearsing as we wandered around.

Punakha Dzong

A different view of Punakha Dzong

It's just another day.

Nomadic Women

Happy Smiley Face...

I should be fit after this workout!

I believe it's the Grandfather carrying the child.

Notice the Red lips, Beetle Nut, and the shoes!!

Is this a Red Magnolia?

It's washing time guys...

On the way to our next destination we stopped by the river and had lunch, this was also where the walking bridge was to go to Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Choeten another temple of splendid design with amazing views from the roof. Unfortunately the Bhutanese do not like you taking pictures of their Buddha's, inside the temples, as they believe if you discard them it's a sign of disrespect! The temple was quite a way up but I need to keep fit so up I went!